Golf Slice Fix: 7 Drills That Actually Work for Beginners

October 15, 2026

Golf Slice Fix: 7 Drills That Actually Work for Beginners

If there's one golf shot that seems to follow beginners everywhere, it's the slice.

You hit what feels like a decent swing, watch the ball start toward the target, and then it takes a hard turn to the right. Suddenly, your perfectly planned drive is heading toward the trees.

For right-handed golfers, that's the classic slice. Left-handed golfers experience the same problem in the opposite direction.

The frustrating part is that simply trying to "swing straighter" usually doesn't fix it.

A slice comes from a specific relationship between the clubface and the swing path. Once you understand that relationship, you can start working on the right things instead of making five different swing changes at once.

The good news is that you don't need a new driver or a $500 lesson package to start making progress.

You need a few simple drills, some patience, and a way to see whether your swing is actually changing.

Here are seven drills that can help you work on the most common causes of a golf slice.

Why You Slice: The Physics, Simplified

Let's keep the physics simple.

For a right-handed golfer, a slice happens when the clubface is open relative to the swing path at impact.

The swing path describes the direction the clubhead is traveling through impact. The clubface describes where the face is pointing.

If the face is open relative to that path, the ball curves to the right.

An outside-in path can make the problem worse. This is the familiar "over-the-top" move where the club approaches the ball from outside the target line and cuts across it.

But here's an important distinction:

The face is the first thing to pay attention to.

Golf Digest's Mark Blackburn made this the focus of his March 21, 2026 slice-fixing article, explaining that golfers can have a relatively neutral path and still slice if the face remains open. His recommended feel is simple: "knuckles down."

That's why the drills below don't all try to force you into one perfect swing position.

Some work on the clubface.

Some work on your swing path.

Some help you connect the two.

And the goal isn't to eliminate every curve immediately. The goal is to gradually replace the big slice with a more predictable ball flight.

Drill 1: The "Knuckles Down" Drill

This is the drill most directly connected to the Golf Digest recommendation from Mark Blackburn.

The idea is to learn how to square the clubface earlier in the downswing instead of waiting until the last possible moment.

How to do it

Start without a ball.

Take your normal golf stance and grip.
Make a controlled backswing.
Pause briefly at the top.
Begin your downswing slowly.
As the club starts down, feel the knuckles of your lead hand turning toward the ground.
Feel your lead wrist becoming slightly more bowed or flat rather than heavily cupped.
Stop before impact and check the clubface.
Repeat the motion several times.
Once the movement feels comfortable, hit short half-shots.

For a right-handed golfer, the lead hand is your left hand. For a left-handed golfer, reverse the directions.

The important part is the feel, not trying to violently rotate your hands.

Blackburn's recommendation is to get the clubface pointing down earlier in the downswing. He notes that if the face becomes square but the path is still coming over the top, you may initially hit pulls. That's not necessarily bad feedback—it can mean you've addressed the open-face part of the slice.

How many reps?

Try 10 slow-motion rehearsals followed by 10 half-shots.

Don't immediately grab your driver and swing at full speed.

Start with a short iron.

What you're looking for

You're not trying to hit a hook.

You're trying to stop leaving the clubface dramatically open.

If your usual shot starts left and curves sharply right, a shot that starts slightly left and flies relatively straight can be a sign that the face is becoming more controlled.

Drill 2: The Alignment Stick Gate

This drill focuses on your swing path.

One of the biggest problems for slicers is that the club travels too far outside-to-inside through impact.

An alignment-stick gate gives your swing a physical boundary.

How to set it up

Place two alignment sticks or suitable training objects on the ground around your hitting area.

Create a narrow path that encourages the club to approach the ball from inside the target line rather than immediately cutting across it.

Make sure the sticks are positioned safely and don't create a hazard if you accidentally hit one.

How to do it

Set up normally.
Make several slow practice swings.
Focus on bringing the club through the gate without contacting the outside object.
Start with half swings.
Gradually increase the length of your swing.
Only add speed when you can repeat the movement comfortably.

The purpose isn't to manufacture a perfect in-to-out swing.

It's to give your body a constraint.

Your brain responds surprisingly well when you give it something physical to avoid.

Beginner tip

Don't make the gate extremely narrow.

If it's too difficult, you'll start manipulating the club just to avoid the sticks.

Start wide and gradually make the path more demanding.

Drill 3: The Towel Under-Arm Drill

This is a classic connection drill.

For many golfers, the arms separate from the body too early during the downswing. That can make it easier for the club to move outside the desired path.

A towel gives you immediate feedback.

How to do it

For a right-handed golfer:

Place a small towel under your trail armpit.
Hold it lightly against your side.
Take a short backswing.
Make a controlled downswing.
Try to keep the towel in place through the early part of the downswing.
Finish the swing naturally.

Don't squeeze the towel as hard as possible.

You aren't trying to glue your arm to your body.

You're simply learning what connected movement feels like.

Start without a ball

This drill is better when you begin with slow rehearsals.

Once the movement feels comfortable, hit short shots with a wedge or short iron.

If the towel immediately falls out, slow down.

Your goal isn't to swing harder.

Your goal is to understand the sequence.

One warning

Don't force the towel to stay under your arm throughout the entire swing.

The arms need to extend through impact and into the follow-through.

The towel is primarily a feedback tool for the transition and early downswing.

Drill 4: The Split-Hand Grip Drill

This drill makes it easier to feel what the hands and arms are doing during the swing.

Instead of placing both hands together on the grip, separate them by several inches.

How to do it

Take your normal golf club.
Place your lead hand near the top of the grip.
Move your trail hand several inches lower.
Make slow half-swings.
Focus on the clubhead moving naturally through the ball.
Gradually increase the length of the swing.

The split-hand position makes it difficult to hide certain swing-path problems.

If you throw the club over the top, the movement becomes immediately noticeable.

If you allow the club to approach more naturally from the inside, the motion can feel smoother.

Why it works

You're giving your hands more room to provide feedback.

Instead of thinking:

"Don't slice."

You're paying attention to:

"Where is the club moving?"

That's a much more useful swing thought.

Best way to use it

Try five slow rehearsals.

Then hit five half-shots with your normal grip.

Repeat that sequence two or three times.

Drill 5: The Tee-in-Front Drill

This drill helps you pay attention to where the club is traveling after impact.

Place a second tee several inches in front of the ball along your target line.

Your job is to strike the ball and then feel as though the club is traveling toward the second tee.

Setup

Place your normal ball on the ground.

Then put another tee approximately 4–6 inches ahead of it toward the target.

The second tee doesn't need to be driven into the ground deeply. You can leave it sitting just above the surface.

How to practice

Start with a short iron.
Make a controlled swing.
Strike the ball.
Feel the club continue toward the forward tee.
Finish the swing.
Repeat without trying to hit the second tee aggressively.

The point isn't literally to smash the tee.

It's to encourage you to continue moving the club toward the target instead of immediately pulling it across your body.

Why slicers can benefit

A golfer who is constantly trying to "save" the ball from going right may begin pulling the club aggressively across the ball.

This drill gives you a simple forward reference.

Think through the ball, not at the ball.

Drill 6: The Slow-Motion Rehearsal

This may be the least exciting drill on the list.

It's also one of the most useful.

If you've been slicing for months or years, your current movement is probably automatic.

Trying to fix it at full speed makes that difficult.

Slow motion gives your brain time to learn something different.

Here's the sequence

Make your normal setup.

Then perform your entire swing at roughly 20–30% speed.

Stop at several checkpoints:

Checkpoint 1: Top of backswing

Notice the position of your hands and club.

Checkpoint 2: Start of downswing

Feel the lower body begin the transition while your upper body stays patient.

Checkpoint 3: Lead-arm parallel

Notice where the club is relative to your hands and target line.

Checkpoint 4: Impact

Feel the clubface returning to the ball rather than being held open.

Checkpoint 5: Follow-through

Let the club continue naturally.

Then repeat.

Don't turn it into a checklist

The purpose isn't to freeze yourself into five positions.

You're teaching your body a different sequence.

Do 10 slow rehearsals.

Then hit five normal shots.

Return to the slow-motion movement whenever the slice comes back.

Drill 7: The Mirror Check

You don't need an expensive launch monitor to get useful feedback.

Sometimes a mirror or phone camera is enough.

The mirror check helps you see whether what you feel is actually happening.

That's important because swing changes often feel much bigger than they really are.

Use a mirror

If you have a large mirror available, take your golf setup in front of it.

Practice your takeaway and backswing slowly.

Then rehearse your transition.

Look for obvious problems such as:

Clubface appearing excessively open
Excessively cupped lead wrist
Upper body immediately spinning toward the target
Club moving dramatically outside the desired path
Poor alignment

Don't obsess over tiny technical details.

You're looking for major patterns.

Better option: Record your swing

If you have a phone, record a few swings from:

Down the line: Camera positioned behind you along the target line.

Face on: Camera positioned in front of you.

Use the same camera position each time.

Then compare your swing before and after practicing the drills.

This is much more useful than relying entirely on how the swing feels.

A movement that feels completely different might look almost identical on video.

And a movement that feels strange might actually be a meaningful improvement.

How to Practice These Drills Without Overthinking

Don't try all seven drills during every range session.

That's one of the easiest ways to make golf instruction overwhelming.

Instead, divide them into two categories.

Face-control drills

Start with:

Knuckles down
Split-hand grip
Slow-motion rehearsal

Path and movement drills

Then work with:

Alignment stick gate
Towel under arm
Tee in front
Mirror or video check

Pick one face drill and one path drill per practice session.

For example:

Session 1

Knuckles down + alignment gate

Session 2

Slow-motion rehearsal + towel drill

Session 3

Split-hand drill + tee-in-front drill

Then use video to see whether anything actually changed.

The biggest mistake is changing everything at once.

Give your body time to learn.

Equipment That Can Help Without Buying New Clubs

You don't need a garage full of golf training equipment to fix a slice.

A few inexpensive tools can make practice easier.

Alignment sticks

These are probably the most useful training aid on this list.

You can use them for alignment, swing-path drills, ball-position checks and gates.

They are inexpensive, portable and useful even after you fix your slice.

Grip trainers

A grip trainer can help if you're struggling to understand how your hands should sit on the club.

This can be particularly useful if you repeatedly return to a weak grip.

However, don't assume a grip trainer will fix your swing by itself.

It's a practice aid, not a replacement for hitting shots.

Impact bags

An impact bag gives you something to strike without worrying about where the ball goes.

They're useful for practicing the feeling of moving the club through impact.

Training clubs and swing aids

Some training clubs are designed specifically to exaggerate swing-path or face-position feedback.

They can be useful if you learn better through physical feedback than verbal instructions.

At SweetSpotClub, we carry a range of training aids that can help you work on alignment, grip, swing path and consistent practice.

The important thing is to buy a training aid because it solves a specific problem—not because it looks impressive in your golf bag.

For more options, see our Best Golf Training Aids 2026 guide.

When to Consider a Draw-Biased Driver

A draw-biased driver can help reduce a slice.

But it should be viewed as assistance—not a permanent substitute for improving your swing.

Draw-biased drivers are designed to encourage the clubhead to return in a way that reduces the tendency for the ball to curve right for a right-handed golfer.

Today's Golfer's draw-driver testing has highlighted the category as an option for golfers who struggle with a slice, while current 2026 testing also includes dedicated models such as the PING G440 SFT and Cobra OPTM Max-D.

The current 2026 Callaway Quantum Max-D is another dedicated draw-bias option. Golf Monthly's testing describes it as particularly effective at reducing the slice while retaining strong ball-speed performance.

But here's the important part:

Don't buy a draw driver simply because you're slicing.

First check:

Is your grip encouraging an open face?
Are you aiming too far left?
Is your club path dramatically outside-in?
Are you consistently striking the heel?
Is your driver properly fitted?

A fitting can be more useful than guessing.

And if your slice is caused by a major swing issue, a draw-biased driver may simply turn a slice into a straighter-looking shot without fixing the underlying movement.

Think of it as a helping hand.

Not a cure.

FAQ

How long does it take to fix a slice?

There's no universal timeline.

Some golfers see a noticeable change after a single practice session, particularly when the problem is strongly related to grip or clubface control.

But consistent improvement usually takes repeated practice over several weeks.

The important distinction is between hitting one straight shot and actually changing your normal ball flight.

Don't judge the drill after three swings.

Try it across several range sessions.

Keep track of your typical shot pattern rather than your best shot.

If your usual slice is gradually becoming a smaller fade, that's progress.

Will new clubs fix my slice?

No, new clubs cannot reliably fix a swing-related slice.

However, properly fitted equipment can reduce the severity of the problem.

A draw-biased driver, additional loft, appropriate shaft characteristics or a different clubhead design may help a golfer who struggles with a right miss.

But equipment should support your swing rather than replace practice.

If you're considering new clubs, get fitted if possible.

A fitting can help determine whether your equipment is contributing to the problem.

Is a slice always bad?

No. A controlled fade can be an effective golf shot.

The problem is the uncontrolled slice.

A small fade that starts where you expect and curves predictably can be useful.

A large slice that starts left and finishes 30 yards right of the target is much harder to manage.

You don't necessarily need to turn every golfer into a draw hitter.

The goal is predictability.

If you know your ball is going to move five yards right, you can aim accordingly.

If it might move five yards or 35 yards, you're dealing with a much bigger problem.

Should I try to hit a draw to fix my slice?

Not necessarily.

A draw can be a useful goal because learning an in-to-out path and better face control can reduce a slice.

But you don't have to become a draw player.

A controlled fade is completely playable.

Your first goal should be reducing the amount of unwanted curve.

Once your ball flight becomes predictable, you can decide whether you want to develop a draw, fade or relatively straight shot.

Should I practice with my driver?

Start with a shorter club.

A 7-iron or another mid-iron is generally easier to control than a driver while you're learning a new movement.

Once you can reproduce the movement with a shorter club, gradually transfer it to longer clubs.

Don't make your driver the testing ground for every swing change.

The Bottom Line

A golf slice can feel like a permanent part of your game.

It isn't.

The most important thing is understanding what's actually causing it.

For many golfers, the combination of an open clubface and an outside-in path creates the familiar banana-shaped shot.

Start by working on the clubface.

The "knuckles down" drill is a particularly simple place to begin, and Golf Digest's Mark Blackburn specifically recommends the feel as a way to square the face earlier in the downswing.

Then work on your path with simple constraints such as an alignment-stick gate, towel drill or split-hand drill.

Use slow-motion rehearsals.

Record your swing.

And give each change enough time to actually become familiar.

You don't need seven swing thoughts.

You don't need a $500 driver.

And you definitely don't need to aim 30 yards left and hope for the best.

Start with one problem.

Pick one drill.

Practice it consistently.

Then see what the ball tells you.

Because the fastest way to fix a golf slice isn't to make your swing more complicated.